How to Use an Oil Cleanser, According to Dermatologists

If you’ve avoided learning how to use an oil cleanser, you might think it seems like a counterintuitive product. After all, isn’t your cleanser supposed to remove oil from your face—not add more to the equation? But don’t let your skin care routine suffer over a misconception. Oil cleansers are not only as effective as other options—they also have some unique benefits.

“Oil cleansers work on the principle that like dissolves like,” says Whitney Hovenic, MD, double board-certified dermatologist, Mohs surgeon, and cofounder of sunscreen brand Spooge. “Many of the things we want to remove from the skin, like makeup, sunscreen, excess sebum, and environmental debris, are oil-based, so an oil cleanser helps break them down so they can be rinsed away more easily.” Oil cleansers also tend to be gentler than other formulas, making them a great choice for sensitive or irritated skin.

Interested in trying out an oil cleanser? You’ve come to the right place. Ahead, find out everything you need to know about this multitasking first step, straight from dermatologists.

Which skin types and concerns can benefit from an oil cleanser?

“Oil cleansers can benefit most skin types, especially people who wear makeup, apply sunscreen daily, or spend time in environments where pollution accumulates on the skin,” Dr. Hovenic says. “They’re particularly helpful for dry or sensitive skin because they cleanse without removing too much of the skin’s natural oils.”

That barrier preservation is key to keeping sensitive skin happy, says Maryam Safaee, MD, FAAD, a Los Angeles–based board-certified dermatologist and founder of ManeRx hair care. “Usually those with sensitive skin struggle to maintain good skin-barrier integrity, thus any additional ingredient in a skin care product can irritate that already very delicate barrier,” she elaborates. “Oil-based cleanser is leaves the barrier intact, and just removes impurities and makeup on the surface of the skin.”

According to Dr. Hovenic, people who use active ingredients like retinoids or exfoliating acids may also find oil cleansers less irritating than other cleansers, which often include foaming agents like surfactants.

When should you avoid an oil cleanser?

The experts say that most people are in the clear to give oil cleansers a try. However, there are a few exceptions. “I usually recommend that people with a condition called seborrheic dermatitis avoid oil-based cleansers,” says Dr. Safaee. “This condition is often aggravated by overgrowth of yeast on the skin, and the yeast feeds off the oil, which can really irritate the skin or make this condition flare.”

If your skin trends oily, formula and proper technique are key. “Individuals with very acne-prone or extremely oily skin may find that certain oil-based formulas feel too heavy or contribute to congestion, particularly if the cleanser is not fully emulsified and rinsed away,” Dr. Hovenic says.

That said, when used correctly, the expert notes that well-formulated oil cleansers can be beneficial for oily skin concerns: “Choosing well-formulated, noncomedogenic options and making sure to rinse thoroughly so no residue remains can help minimize the risk of clogged pores or breakouts.”

How to use an oil cleanser, according to dermatologists

Sub in an oil cleanser where you’d use your usual cleansing product, and make sure to fully emulsify the product in your hands and on your face by gently scrubbing. Keep in mind that it might take a more thorough rinse to remove the product fully from your skin before moving on with your routine—especially if you’re using retinol; if traces of oil remain, Dr. Hovenic says, the active ingredient won’t penetrate the skin properly.

Generally, the rest of your skin care routine can remain the same after you introduce an oil cleanser, but there are a few considerations to keep in mind. “Since oil-based cleansers provide a greater barrier function than your traditional foaming cleansers, you may notice you don’t need to moisturize as aggressively,” Dr. Safaee says. “The moisturizer you used before may be too hydrating and leave you feeling like you have residual film on your skin.”

Noticing residue on your skin after an oil cleanse—or buildup over time? “Many people use oil cleansers as the first step in an evening double cleanse to remove makeup, sunscreen, and excess oil,” Dr. Hovenic says. “Afterward, a gentle water-based cleanser is typically enough to finish the process.” Although, Dr. Safaee notes, double-cleansing may not be the best choice for everyone. “You can actually be overdoing it and stripping the moisture away from your skin barrier,” she says. If you’re noticing irritation, stick to one thorough cleanse.

As for how you can tell if your oil cleanser is working for your skin? “An effective oil cleanser should leave the skin feeling clean, soft, and comfortable rather than tight or dry,” Dr. Hovenic says. It’s also important to support your skin barrier in every step of your routine—not just with your cleanser. That means daily SPF, moisturizer, and paying attention to your skin’s unique needs.

Grace McCarty is the associate beauty editor at Glamour.