Any beauty lover knows there’s one must-visit location when traveling overseas: The pharmacy. European, Australian, and Asian sunscreens are also known for their special formulations, sunscreen filters, and more. And for the longest time, US-regulated sunscreen has gotten a bad rap for being outdated and lackluster formula-wise compared to its international counterparts. That is, until now. Earlier this summer, the US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) finally approved a new sunscreen filter that could signal the start of better sunscreen innovation in the States: bemotrizinol (BEMT).
“The agency’s action to add bemotrizinol as an active ingredient to the sunscreen OTC monograph marks the first time in 20 years that a new sunscreen active ingredient has become available to US consumers,” a spokesperson for the FDA tells Vogue. “It also represents the first industry-initiated administrative order to be finalized under the landmark OTC monograph reform legislation enacted in 2020.”
The process of approving new filters and ingredients for sun protection in the US can be complicated as sunscreen is regulated as an OTC drug. But the FDA wants to assure consumers that it is not lagging on purpose, and that when a new ingredient is presented, the federal agency will do its due diligence to review it and get it to market as quickly as possible should it pass all the safety requirements.
“The agency has not delayed the approval of new ingredients,” says the FDA. “The delay comes because information has not been provided to us. It’s important to clarify that there are no pending submissions to the agency for new sunscreen ingredients. The FDA is strongly committed to helping facilitate the entry of new sunscreen active ingredients and sunscreen drug products to the U.S. market that are safe and effective.”
Read on to see just how bemotrizinol changes the US sunscreen game.
What is bemotrizinol?
Bemotrizinol is a synthetic organic UV filter that, as cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Innovation Labs Krupa Koestline explains, absorbs both UVB and UVA rays at a wider range on the UV spectrum than other single-molecule filters. “What’s exciting about this filter is that it gives you really good broad-spectrum protection in one molecule,” says Koestline. “It’s particularly strong around 340 nanometers, which is an area where some of the filters we’ve traditionally had access to in the US aren’t necessarily the strongest.”
Like other chemical filters, she says it works by absorbing UV rays and releasing that energy as heat. And while it may be new in the US, BEMT has been widely used all over the world, particularly in Asia, Australia, and the EU, for decades.
What makes bemotrizinol different?
“BEMT gives us something we’ve been missing in the US,” says Regine J. Mathieu, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and Skin of Color Society member. “Strong, stable UVA and UVB protection in a single filter.”
Helen He, MD, director of lasers and cosmetic surgery and co-director of the Mount Sinai-Clinique Healthy Skin Dermatology Center, agrees and calls bemotrizinol a unique chemical sunscreen filter in that sense. She explains that most chemical or hybrid sunscreens in the States contain a selective combination of chemical filters and other ingredients to get that wide coverage across the UV spectrum. With BEMT, you get all of that with just one and as a result, you get protection from both the UVB wavelengths that cause skin cancer and UVA radiation that causes skin aging and hyperpigmentation.
The Other Benefits
One of BEMT’s main benefits is that it is photostable, which Koestline says means it won’t break down as quickly when you’re out in the sun. Dr. He adds that BEMT has a larger molecular weight than other chemical filters, and that it is likely too large and oil-soluble to penetrate the skin barrier to be absorbed into the blood stream.
Another advantage of this filter is its consistency. Koestline says that BEMT can help stabilize another sunscreen ingredient, avobenzone, and when used together, it can help formulators make a sunscreen that feels better. “It works really well at relatively low levels,” she says. “You have more room to create sunscreens that are lighter, less greasy, and don’t leave as much of a white cast. That’s a big part of why some of the European and Korean sunscreens people love can feel so much nicer on the skin.”
The Downsides
Experts say BEMT is generally well tolerated, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Dr. He says that there is always a possibility that it can cause an allergic reaction or some sort of irritation like contact dermatitis (though it’s not common), and that those with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea may want to patch test first before committing to a new sunscreen. She adds that even if you do develop a rash or some sort of reaction to a BEMT sunscreen, it may not necessarily be a reaction to the BEMT itself but to another ingredient in the sunscreen. Dr. Mathieu adds that those with melasma or persistent hyperpigmentation shouldn’t rely on BEMT alone as visible light can still contribute to pigmentation, especially in darker skin tones. “BEMT is exciting, but it doesn’t make every other sunscreen ingredient obsolete,” she says.
Also, BEMT is still a chemical filter. So those who want a mineral-only formula will want to skip this type of sunscreen.
How to Use
Regular sunscreen application (a shot glass amount for the body, reapplication every two hours, at least SPF 30, etc.) still applies when using sunscreen with BEMT in it. Dr. He explains that just because BEMT is photostable, it doesn’t mean it won’t break down from prolonged sun exposure, sweat, water, friction, or normal wear. It’s important to reapply throughout the day. “New filter, same sunscreen habits,” agrees Dr. Mathieu.
The Bright Future of US Sunscreens
We can expect brands to quickly adopt BEMT into their sunscreen formulas. Ultra Violette launched the Unblock Sunscreen SPF 50 Breakout-Friendly Skinscreen at the end of August this year, the first in the US market to feature the new filter.
Experts are also beyond excited for this new development; they say that it sets up for better sunscreen innovations moving forward. “I’m most excited about what this could mean going forward: better UVA protection, more elegant formulas, and more options that work across different skin tones and skin types,” says Dr. Mathieu. “We’ve had a bit of sunscreen FOMO in the U.S. for years, watching newer filters become available internationally. So after decades without a new sunscreen active ingredient, this feels like a meaningful step forward.”
“Since BEMT is the first sunscreen filter approved by the FDA in decades, I feel optimistic that this will open the door to FDA approval of other modern sunscreen filters that are already in use in other countries,” agrees Dr. He. “Allowing companies to develop even more formulations and increasing the number of sunscreen options in the US.”
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