What to see and do in St Andrews, Scotland

In medieval times, the bones of St Andrew, patron saint of Scotland’s Pictish people, were brought to a small, wind-worn town atop a sandstone plateau in Fife, on the country’s east coast. These relics conferred such celebrity that a bishop took up residence, a great cathedral was commissioned and the town — now known as St Andrews — became the country’s ecclesiastical capital.

Today, St Andrews’ ruined, roofless cathedral yawns at the heavens, and parts of the town’s medieval castle have tumbled into the sea. You might think this would dent St Andrews’ appeal — quite the opposite. These skeletal remains give the town’s coastline a spectral beauty that’s best appreciated in winter, after the golfers that descend each summer have cleared out.

Another draw is that Fife’s spirits industry — once feared dead — has reawakened, with whisky and gin distilleries putting the region back on the map. The best place to try them is at a traditional pub or by a hotel fire, after a windswept walk between desolate beaches.

What’s there to do?

Rather a lot. Ruined though the castle may be, it still cuts a handsome figure — especially when the low winter sun gilds its walls in gold. Inside, you’ll get insights into the violent events leading to the 16th-century Scottish Reformation. Peer at the dungeon into which Protestant infiltrators threw the murdered body of Catholic cardinal David Beaton in 1546, then explore the damp, moss-furred tunnels dug during the resulting siege. Afterwards, cure your claustrophobia by inhaling the sea air at the pebble-strewn Castle Beach below.

At West Sands, you’ll find a bigger, sandier beach with tousled dunes, made famous by its role in the opening scenes of the 1981 classic Chariots of Fire. Twitchers will find much to delight them among the sands: egrets, eiders, curlews and lots of geese.

If the wind starts to bite, retreat into town to explore the university, founded in 1413; it supplies a self-guided walking tour of its buildings, including St Salvator’s Chapel — a late gothic jewel with modern stained-glass windows by Scottish master William Wilson.

Where are the best places to stay?

This year, Rufflets, a carbon-neutral hotel set on a country estate west of town, launched four self-contained shepherd’s huts billed as Woodland Suites. They’re small but sumptuous: each has a wood-burning stove and a free-standing copper tub for banishing the chill. The roof is fitted with a skylight, facilitating stargazing from your bed.

For something more central, check in to Haar Restaurant & Rooms, a six-bed townhouse with coastal-themed rooms that reflect the seafood on its daily tasting menus. The chef is Arbroath native (and 2018 MasterChef: The Professionals finalist) Dean Banks.

Where else should I eat & drink?

The view from 18, Rusacks hotel’s rooftop restaurant, stretches from the 18th hole of the Old Course — aptly named, as it’s the oldest golf course in the world — to the West Sands and the North Sea. Settle into its dimly lit, wood-panelled space and order the reasonably priced afternoon tea, which comes with haggis sausage rolls and tarts made with Fife strawberries. Or for something more substantial, head to The Criterion — a family-owned pub established in 1874 that’s all maroon leather and tartan banquettes. Try its huge steak and ale pie.

Eden Mill’s much anticipated distillery and visitor centre is due to open in nearby Guardbridge in 2025. In the meantime, take a 20-minute bus ride east from the city centre to sample drams in the wood-beamed tasting room of Kingsbarns Distillery, or try gin at its sister distillery Darnley’s — both offer tours. If the drinks loosen you up for some dancing, head to the industrial-chic restaurant Forgan’s St Andrews for one of its free ceilidh gatherings accompanied by a folk band. Check the website for dates.