At just after 8:30 p.m. on Tuesday, December 9, the burlesque performers showed up at Raoul’s. 8:30 p.m., yes, seems early to see a little bit of titty. And yes, Tuesday also seems early in the week to see a little bit of titty. But shimmy and sashay they did—to a jazz rendition of Britney Spears’s “…Baby One More Time”—with one dancer even climbing atop the spiral staircase near the bar.
It was an occasion to throw propriety to the wind: the SoHo bistro’s 50th anniversary. Although Raoul’s has often been described as a downtown institution, now it feels like an indisputable fact. While the neighborhood has transformed from warehouses and art galleries to designer boutiques and chain mega-stores, the dark and moody Raoul’s has remained the same—as has much of its clientele. In the ’70s, it became a go-to late-night spot for John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, and many other cast members from Saturday Night Live. Half a century later, it remains a haven for artists, creatives, and New York City’s cool kids.
Jennifer Lawrence and Cooke Maroney.
Courtesy of Moda Operandi
Daniella Kallmeyer and Jackson Wiederhoeft.
Courtesy of Moda Operandi
Including Chloë Sevigny. “I took my husband here on our first date,” she says in the back booth at the restaurant as waiters rush by with martinis and fries. “We came here for the burger.” She’s wearing a black dress from Renaissance Renaissance, a red lip, and a whole bunch of diamonds—a fitting outfit to host the evening alongside Karim Raoul, son of Raoul’s cofounder Serge, as well as Lauren Santo Domingo. (Also fitting: Santo Domingo released a capsule collection with Moda Operandi, Raoul, and Ryan Matthew of Raoul’s–themed merchandise, including a baseball cap with its logo and an au-poivre-scented candle, after its signature dish. “Raoul’s is one of those rare New York institutions that feels forever cool,” Santo Domingo says.) In the ’90s—as Sevigny cemented her status as a New York It girl after starring in Kids—she used to have dinner with her friends in the back garden. “Being in New York—walking through a kitchen—it felt very Scorsese,” Sevigny says.
Courtesy of Moda Operandi
Stephanie Suberville, Christopher John Rogers, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Brandon Maxwell.
Courtesy of Moda Operandi
She, Santo Domingo, and Raoul invited a notable group of friends: Jennifer Lawrence and her husband, Cooke Maroney—Raoul’s regulars—were there, as was DJ Mark Ronson. Santo Domingo sat Christopher John Rogers next to her. At the same table was Laura Kim, co-creative director of Monse and Oscar de la Renta; Catherine Holstein of Khaite was nearby, as was Daniella Kallmeyer of Kallmeyer. While the Raoul’s staff offered up a number of things for dinner (pumpkin ravioli, New York state trout, organic chicken with truffle jus) nearly every person ordered (you guessed it) the steak au poivre.
Chloe Sevigny.
Courtesy of Moda Operandi
Hotelier Sean MacPherson and his wife, Lingua Franca founder Rachelle Hruska MacPherson, milled about the dining room, saying hi to Architectural Digest global editorial director Amy Astley. By 9:05—far before the party was set to end—a crowd had spilled out onto the sidewalk. Some smoked, others waited to get in. It was a moment that felt like it could exist in both the present and the past…just like Raoul’s itself.
