The Place
Sanlitun is one of the busiest hubs in Beijing for shopping, dining and entertainment. However, the towering malls and hotels can make us forget there are still pleasant nooks to find amidst the shopping centers.
In-between (Zhijian) is such a place – hidden in a small alley just north of Workers Stadium.
It was founded by Nathan Zhang and Starry Xiao – who ran the bistro White Tiger Village in the hutongs for eight years before it moved to its current location on Maizaidan Lu. Starry Xiao is a chef from Kunming with years of restaurant experience and he redesigns the menu each season to utilize the freshest ingredients available.
In-between – which has just celebrated its one-year anniversary – specializes in modern Yunnan fusion food and imported wines, as well as craft beers.
The Food
A common complaint about Yunnan food is that it is too oily or fried, but this is not a problem you encounter at In-between; the patrons of the yoga studio next door often come by for a light and healthy post-exercise lunch.
In-between has lunch and dinner menus that both include noodles and small plates of Chinese tapas. They get most meats and sauces straight from Yunnan to start with an authentic taste before they add their own western swirl into the mix with ingredients such as pesto, ham and parmesan cheese.
Even simple vegetables receive an extra hit of pizazz – the Broccolini and Cheese Chuan’er (RMB16) has seaweed, fish flakes and paprika generously placed on top.
Image by Yinmai O’Connor/That’s
The summer menu boasts a diverse mix of textures and tastes – most of the tapas have a dab of sauce on top that lends an extra punch to an already flavorful dish, such as the Ox Tongue and Romesco (RMB25). Even if tongue sounds unappealing to you – yours will thank you for trying this moist, melt-in-your-mouth meat.
The Chicken Salad with Green Papaya (RMB48) is a must-try for lunch or dinner. It’s healthy, filling and has a great balance of sweet, sour and spicy bits. The protein from the chicken and sesame seeds are enhanced by the finely shredded papaya and minced pepper.
Image by Yinmai O’Connor/That’s
The Tofu with Chinese Toon (RMB38) has a crispy crunch on the outside, a soft inside, and much more umami flavor than that dish usually has at other restaurants.
The noodles dishes range from RMB36-58 – and you’ll actually want to drink all of the broth, which is light and free of MSG.
They also have an assortment of draft beers (RMB58-68), whiskeys (RMB98), as well as natural French and Spanish wines to choose from.
Jing created the wine list for In-between that includes many natural wines, which are produced using simple or more traditional methods. The natural wines range from RMB350-450, while the regular wines go for RMB200-300.
The pricing of the wine is a bit confusing as there is a large variety stored in a fridge by the entrance and not all of the available selection is included on the menu, but the staff is helpful and friendly, so feel free to ask for assistance.
The Vibe
In-between is a dimly lit and cozy place, well-suited for a date night as well as a chatty dinner with friends. It comfortably seats around 24 people, with options for table or bar seating.
There is usually unobtrusive Afrobeat music playing that anyone from grandmas to hipsters would find pleasant – although it can get a little loud when the place is packed with happy customers.
Image by Yinmai O’Connor/That’s
The restaurant has a large window looking into the impeccably clean kitchen – we don’t often see tiles that white in kitchens, or quite frankly anywhere, in China.
In-between is an affordable and unique dining experience that offers an escape from the overdeveloped and LED-lit hubbub of Sanlitun without needing to go all the way to the hutongs.
Price: RMB80-135 (excluding alcohol)
Who’s Going: Foodies, health nuts, Sanlitun shoppers looking for a break
Good For: Date nights, healthy lunches and quick snacks
Open 11.30am-1am (closed on Sundays)
In-between, No.6 Xingfuyicun 7th Alley, Chaoyang, 朝阳区工体北路幸福一村7巷甲6号.
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[Cover image by Yinmai O’Connor/That’s. All other photos are courtesy of In-between]