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Shall we deal with the name first? The “salmon sperm” facial—celebrated for its hydrating, plumping, and all-round youth-ifying effects—is so called because it utilizes tiny fragments of DNA extracted from salmon sperm, also referred to, less queasily, as polynucleotides. Injected using a needle or a cannula, the formula’s moisture-binding properties have some major benefits for the complexion, chiefly boosting hydration levels for visibly dewier skin.
The treatment initially entered the beauty mainstream thanks to Kim Kardashian (who can also take “credit” for “normalizing” $2k full-body MRI scans and vampire facials), and more recently has been revealed as a go-to technique for Jennifer Aniston and Charli xcx. Still, susceptible as I am to a celebrity endorsement, it was hearing from Vogue’s own global beauty and wellness director, Jessica Diner—who told me in passing that she swears by salmon sperm above all else—that persuaded me to investigate further.
The Botox and filler route has never really appealed to me (never say never, obviously), but this treatment felt, to me at least, like a more acceptable entry point into the world of aesthetics. Perhaps because, while it does involve a needle, it’s a natural rather than manmade substance being injected into your dermis. And when the always glowy Jess offered to hook me up with Clinic Dr Dray in South Ken if I’d write about it, the temptation to let the expert team loose on my fine lines swiftly outweighed any lingering judginess.
“The salmon DNA treatment is suitable for all skin types, and for anyone looking to improve their skin’s quality,” says (the ultra-French and ultra-charming) Dr Benjamin, whom I see for my initial consultation. He tells me it’s great for patients with dry and dehydrated skin—music to my ears—as well as those struggling with the after-effects of sun damage or uneven tone. It can even help with chronic skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis, he explains.
I tell him I’ve heard polynucleotides can cause bruising, but Dr Benjamin reassures me the clinic’s method, using a cannula on just four points of the face rather than tiny needles all over, means there is scarcely any downtime from the treatment. Numbing cream is applied to my face, and after around 15 minutes, Dr Benjamin administers the magic substance in a spot beneath each eye, towards the top of the cheekbone, and then again at two points on either side of my mouth.
Full disclosure: it hurts, and the sensation of a tube burrowing under your skin is deeply unpleasant. But, it only lasts for around 30 seconds each time, so it’s bearable. I keep my eyes closed throughout so I can’t speak to the size of the needle, but afterwards I notice my friend, dragged along for moral support, has taken on a distinctly green pallor, which suggests it was big. According to Dr Benjamin, it’s important to have a follow-up session within six weeks of your first (“this is when you will really notice the difference,” he insists), but after that point, twice-yearly appointments will suffice, he says.
Which brings us to the question of price. At Dr Dray, you’re in and out of the clinic within 30 minutes or so, but you’ll leave $1,000 lighter if you’re having a “full face.” So, even if you do only need two sessions per year to maintain the effects, the cost will be prohibitive for many. But if it isn’t? I’m here to tell you that it works.
The results from this treatment are not instantaneous, so much so that I’ve basically forgotten I had it by the time people start remarking on my skin a few weeks later. Then I begin to notice it myself: it’s subtle, but my face looks fresher and feels… bouncier. My sister, who can always be relied on for some brutally honest feedback, informs me that my “eye bags look a lot better.” After session two, Dr Benjamin’s prediction bears out: I can see a marked improvement in my skin tone and texture, and I find myself wondering what I’d be willing to cut back on in order to budget for biannual appointments.
Would I do it again? If finances allowed, absolutely. Otherwise, it’s back to eating salmon (it’s a great source of skin-boosting vitamin E and omega-3 fatty acids) and being diligent with the moisturizer.
